Thoughts on surf photography, dealing with harsh conditions and being a family man.
Our local spot is kind of two edged, its an open point break with very kind currents and almost no rips. On the other hand, it’s scary as hell with large rocks just waiting to hurt you. This was a big problem for me as a rookie surfer, I couldn’t get myself to charge waves in fear of falling on those rocks. It was like pieces just falling into all the right places when I realised that I could just leave my surfboard on shore and bring my camera into the water with me.
It was a big turn for me. I could keep on doing what I love: Taking pictures and being able to enjoy the power of the waves all at once.
For the next few hours I swim around trying to place myself in the right spot – the impact zone. Surfers go past me at the speed of light, waves crash over me, rocks poke me in the side. It’s all part of the game, and what a game it is.
After each session it’s all smiles on everybody. The crew got some sweet waves, and I got some sweet shots.
Being a family man, it’s not easy to find time for everything and careful planning is a must. If I’m lucky, good waves hit on weekends, or maybe afternoons. It sure helps with an understanding girlfriend, she surfs herself and understands that swell is swell and is hard to plan for.
As winter sets in, the days get shorter and shorter making planning even harder. With only 3-4 hours of daylight it makes each trip a race against time. We are all looking forward for more waves, more nice shots and more good times together in the water.