I took my camera and left Spain for the country “down under.” This is what I brought back.
Upon arriving to a country like Australia from the other side of the world, a surf lover always goes with very high expectations, but truth is stranger than fiction.
All that we see in surf videos, documentaries, and TV shows, is only an appetizer of what surfing truly means in Australia.
On my trip, my camera was an extension of my eyes, sometimes obsessively, but my lack of surf skills made it so that I experienced surfing from behind the lens rather than in front. In spite of this, I was able to experience some good spots when I went to the Gold Coast, and some awesome waves like Snapper Rocks and Kirra. These experiences will always remain with me.
Surfing is alive from the moment you wake up anywhere in Sydney, to the moment you go to bed in smaller places like Coolangatta or Byron Bay.
I was able to experience first hand that surfing was not only present at the beach. It’s alive in the streets, in the people – it goes beyond the shore. You carry it with you throughout the day; this strange addiction that stays in your head until you catch another wave. The feeling follows you to the bar, while having beers, listening to a local band play, while you talk about the day’s sessions. Over breakfast, where people come with their surfboards, long boards, and skates – it came to my mind that surfing in Australia is synonymous with “fútbol” in Spain.
What I admired the most was to see an entire family, from the grandfather to the grandson, all together spending a day surfing at the beach. The public barbecues and the beaches that house them, so well taken care of, I honestly have never seen such a sight and doubt I ever will again. They truly don’t “shit where they eat”.
An extreme situation made me take a hard but real picture, when I saw a homeless person seeking shelter in the grass with only his surfboard on the side. He stood up on several occasions to surf, which made me think about the significance of the sport in society.
My trip sent me from Sydney to the Gold Coast, where I could experience a high quality of living. The Australians know how to “work to live”, and more than anything they know how to enjoy what they have.
When you leave this country, you feel like you are part of it. This is what happened to me on my way back and what I have continued to experience during other trips I have taken since. I always wonder, “Will it be better than Australia?” Although it would be unfair to say an emphatic no, because each country has its amazing things, but I would always rather live in Australia.
Thanks to this trip I have been able to create the photographic exhibition “Massive Aussie” in my country, Spain, and relive my experiences through my unforgettable photos.